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Bali
has always been considered one of the more exotic dive and travel locations.
It’s not one of the premier dive spots in the world, but it certainly
has some interesting diving!
Bali is easy
to get to on several major airlines. Our trip from Pittsburgh was via Houston, Hawaii,
and Guam, arriving in Denpasar, the capitol of Bali. We had an unexpected overnight in Gram, but
that part of the story is written up in our Wakatobi review.
After
arriving back in Sulawesi from our Wakatobi adventure, we flew from east
to west Sulawesi, then back to Denpasar, in one day. We were met at the Bali airport for our transport
to Mimpi Resort on the northeastern coast of Bali, a trip that was supposedly
three hours. Unfortunately, it
was dusk, turning dark, and raining.
Once out of Denpasar, we headed into the hills; even more unfortunately,
it was really pouring there! Traffic
began backing up and eventually came to a halt. Water was gushing down the road, getting high enough to float cars!
Plus, it was impossible to see the deep ditch running along the
side of the road. It suddenly became very quiet in our van, but eventually our intrepid
driver got us off the main road, zigzagged through a rice paddy, and back
on our way. We finally reached
Mimpi at midnight, after a four-hour drive.
The
Mimpi grounds are very pretty, with flowers and plants everywhere.
Our room was in a cluster of four.
Each room had a lockable wooden door that opened onto a private
courtyard. To the right was a large open-air daybed, overlooking a fishpond
and the resort walkway; lights and a fan made this a cozy nook for reading
or napping. A rattan blind could
be lowered to screen the area from passerbys.
To the left of the courtyard were glass doors that opened into
the bedroom, which had a large bed, small refrigerator, and nightstand. The closet had storage shelves and a decent
sized safe. Through a slatted
door was the bathroom, with a covered, outdoor shower.
It looked great, but we ran into two problems: mosquitoes had easy access to the bedroom through the door slats,
and at night, when neighbors burned every mosquito coil they could find,
the smell flowed into our bedroom, clogging our sinuses and giving us
headaches. We finally hung a long
towel over the bathroom door, which solved most of the problems. A regular door, or even better, an indoor bathroom,
would have been nice. At the end
of the week, I opened the closet door to pack, and a horde of mosquitoes
flew out! Amazingly, we didn’t
actually get many bites, probably because it was still the beginning of
the rainy season.
The
dive shop was less than a minute from our room, next to the restaurant.
They seemed to be well organized; once they had our name and room
number, we were pretty much able to do what we wanted.
We did one dive with a guide to find the Liberty Ship and get a
feel for its layout. After that, they’d ask when we planned on diving
next, and our gear would be ready for us. After diving, we trekked back to the dive shop, stripped off our
gear, threw it in one of the three rinse tanks, and the staff took over,
rinsing and hanging everything. All
gear was locked up at night. The
shop usually closed about 9:00 each evening, which left plenty of time
for night dives, since it gets dark about 6:00 P.M.
The
beach diving is great. Besides
the Liberty ship itself being a good dive, there are all kinds of neat
fish and critters living in and around the wreck. There is also good muck diving straight off
the resort, and a wall with coral to the right. If you want to go farther, you can arrange transport in outriggers
that look like water-strider bugs when they move across the water.
The
only problem with all this great diving is getting to the water; the beach
is made up of fairly large, round lava rocks that are feet-killers!
But there are easy solutions and tank sherpas are one of them.
Tank sherpas are tiny Indonesian girls and women who carry one
or two tanks on their heads, BCs and regulators attached, using a towel
for cushioning. It’s absolutely
mesmerizing watching them walk the ten-minute stretch to the Liberty wreck
with two tanks on their head, sometimes a weight belt over each shoulder,
wearing only flimsy flip-flops on their feet!
Just
walking across the rocks hurt our poor, wimpy feet, so we started wearing
our thick-soled sandals over our boots; when we arrived at the entry point,
we took the sandals off in the water and used a weight belt to attach
them to one of our tanks. Diving
straight out from the resort is only a few steps to the water, but we
still used the sandal method.
We
also dove off the resort for two days, driving up to one hour each way
with another dive operation. The
diving was not terrific and the coral was sparse and beat, but we were
able to see some critters that we didn’t see at Mimpi, like leaf fish
and cuttlefish, and we got to ride in the water-strider boats.
The
food at the resort was plentiful and cheap. Breakfast was American or Indonesian style;
lunch and dinner were from the same menu, or a sandwich menu was available.
There were also several local restaurants and other resorts to
visit.
Although
the diving would not be considered world class in Bali, we saw plenty
of interesting things and were very satisfied. Next time we go to Bali, we’ll stop back at
this resort and then make a grand tour of Bali, stopping for a few days
at various locations to see what the diving is like, and viewing the beautiful
countryside. We hear there’s some
more really weird stuff that we still have to see!
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