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Egypt
and the Red Sea have always been on our back-burner, but we were never
sure it was a safe place to go. After participating in a familiarization
trip, we know it's as safe as or safer than other destinations.
Our
flight leaving Pittsburgh experienced a 20 minute "ground freeze" while
President Obama arrived for the local AFL-CIO meeting, and the Egypt
Air flight left JFK one hour late because we were #17 for take-off.
And I thought flying was down! I was concerned about our carry-on luggage,
but this was not an issue at all. We carried on two items each, and
were allowed two check-in two pieces weighing 50 pounds each. The economy
seats seemed a tad larger than other international flights we've been
on, with a little more legroom. There were no seat-back TV screens,
so we watched three bad movies and ate two OK meals as we flew non-stop
to Cairo, the largest city in Africa. Egypt has a population of 75 million,
rising each minute, and is 90% Sunni Muslim. Most women wore scarves
and very few were completely covered.
At
JFK and everywhere along the way, we were met and escorted by a representative
of Learning Through Travel or the Emperor
Fleet. We were like ducklings following our guide Manal in Cairo
and Luxor. Manal really knows her stuff, including how to haggle and
what price to offer. She's a gem.
Arriving
in Cairo, we were taken to the Mena House Oberoi Hotel, right next to
the three great pyramids, including Cheops'. We were introduced to Egyptian
cuisine, really different. Even the ice cream was a different consistency,
more like custard. Over the course of our two weeks, we learned to embrace
buffet meals where we could pick and choose and actually see what we
were about to eat! Most of us had stomach issues at some point during
the trip. We did not drink tap water anywhere, but bottled water is
cheap.
But
the pyramids, the Sphnix, and the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities were
fantastic, and the camel ride (my first) was a hoot. We also went to
the Khan El Khalili Bazaar, where we were warned not to stop or talk
unless we really wanted to purchase-the vendors try to get the tourists
to say something so they know what language to speak, and they can speak
most languages.
While
we were touring, our dive luggage headed for Hurghada via truck, so
we wouldn't have to pay overweight fees on the domestic flight from
Cairo. Unfortunately the wake-up call was at 1:30am to catch the 5am
flight. Since we couldn't board the liveaboard until late afternoon;
they put us on a day boat for a 2 tank trip, so we loaded our dive gear
into baskets and boarded the boat. There are a lot of day boats that
go out from Hurghada, so we had to be careful to re-board the same boat.
The fish mostly looked familiar, but had different color schemes. The
second dive I counted 19 lionfish. We boarded the Emperor Superior around
5pm.
The
Superior
is a good-looking wooden boat, with large, comfortable sitting and dining
areas. The cabins, except for the two in the bow, are nice sized with
two side-by-side twin beds; the bow cabins have bunk beds; they try
to only put one person in those. There was adequate storage space. The
bathrooms had small, separate shower areas, and plenty of counter space.
The dive deck is large, but there are two rows of tanks facing each
other with not that much room between them, so it can get congested,
especially with the crew trying to help. The dive entry area was big
enough for several people to don fins at the same time. Nitrox is included
on the Superior and the tanks are DIN, with convertible inserts available.
Fills were quick and right on the money. The camera table is tiny, with
small cubicles above. One DSL takes up all the space, so the three coffee
tables in the lounge area became camera tables.
All
meals were buffet. Breakfast consisted of cereal, toast, eggs,and meat.
Lunch and dinners might have fish, pasta, chicken, and/or beef, soup,
salad, rolls, vegetables, and some type of dessert. Several types of
cookies, hot water, tea, cocoa, sodas, and instant coffee were always
available. Wine and beer were extra. Although not all the food was to
my taste, I didn't go hungry.
The
diving ranged from good to way cool; likewise the visibility ranged
from a not-so-good 40 feet to a spectacular 100'+, sometimes during
the same dive. We did 4 dives most days, starting with a wake-up call
at 5:30am, 6am dive, breakfast, 10:30 dive, lunch, 2:30 dive, 7pm night
dive, and finally dinner. I didn't like the early start, but long intervals
between dives were great, and 4 dives a day are enough for me, especially
since dives lasted 60-80 minutes. During the week we saw several crocodile
fish, numerous lionfish, pipefish, a couple Spanish dancers and their
eggs, clown fish of various kinds, many turtles and eels, Napoleon Wrasse,
and of course colorful reef fish. We dived a couple wrecks, including
the Thistlegorm, with trucks, motorbikes, and even a locomotive engine.
Although the diving mostly didn't strike me as spectacular, it was never
boring; the less traveled divers were constantly enthralled. Most dives
were from the Superior, although a few required inflatable rides. One
diver, while stepping down into the inflatable, slipped, fell, and broke
her leg. She was transported to a hospital where she had surgery. She
was treated well there, and is also now an enthusiastic supporter of
DAN.
Between dives
there were plenty of places to hang out-the lounge, the sundeck one level
up, or the covered fly bridge; it was pretty neat coming up from a dive
with a view of the Sinai Peninsula. The Superior can handle 20 divers;
with the 13 of us it was exceptionally roomy. We were allotted two large
bath towels, two smaller towels, and one beach towel for the week. There
were two showers on the dive deck, not always warm, but there was plenty
of hot water in the cabins. Bath soap was provided but not shampoo.
Reluctantly
leaving the Emperor Superior, we took a 5 hour bus ride to Luxor, where
we checked into a fancy hotel overlooking the Nile River. We toured the
Valley of the Kings , the Avenue of Sphinxes, the Karnak Temple, the tomb
of King Tutankhamen, seeing his actual mummy, and the Temple of Queen
Hatshepsut, considered one of the finest buildings in Egypt. It was all
pretty amazing, even in the 100+ degree dry heat. We had a buffet dinner
on the Royal Lily, one of the many Nile River cruise boats.
We spent
one final night at a hotel close to the Cairo airport after flying from
Luxor to Cairo. Another early wake-up call ensued to arrive in time for
our 9:15am flight, only to sit for 5 hours while they found us a plane
that worked. Some passengers missed their JFK connecting flights, but
our flight back to Pittsburgh was also delayed-one of the few times I've
been happy about a delayed flight.
So would
we go back to Egypt? You bet, in 2012, with a few tweaks on the itinerary
(no 1:30am wake-up calls!), and an added Nile River cruise. You're welcome
to join us; just call us for details.
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